Gwaii Haanas, islands of beauty

Haunting open seas, clusters of small windswept islands protecting Haida heritage sites beckon visitors to the wilderness of Gwaii Haanas.

National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site

Gwaii Haanas was set aside as a protected area in1988. Unique because of its spectacular west coast scenery, rich ecology, and Haida culture, the area is also managed in an exceptional way. Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation -the Archipelago Management Board,co-operatively plan, operate and share its management.

Enter a wilderness

Gwaii Haanas, located at the southern end of Haida Gwaii/Queen Charlotte Islands, is 640 km north to south with 1740 km of shoreline, over 138 islands, and a total land area of 1,470 ha. The east coast has the gentler landscape with sheltered bays, inlets, islands, islets and sandy beaches. Finding a sheltered anchoring spot is not difficult. On the other hand, the west coast is rugged, steep, and exposed to the open Pacific Ocean. Wave energy pounding the rocky coast has been calculated as equivalent to a wind of 1500 km per hour!

Haida Culture

Gwaii Haanas has been home to the Haida people for thousands of years. A recent archaeological inventory of the area has documented more than 500 Haida archaeological and historical sites, including villages, smaller habitation sites, rock shelters, caves, and burial caves.

During summer months Haida Gwaii Watchmen live at five of these village sites: K'uuna Ilnagaay (Skedans), T'aanuu Ilnagaay (Tanu), Hlk'yah Ilnagaay (Windy Bay), Gandl K'in Ilnagaay (Hotspring), and SGang Gwaay Ilnagaay (Anthony Island), to act as guardians and hosts.

The village of Nan Sdins Ilnagaay (Ninstints) on SGang Gwaay is considered to have the world's finest display of Haida mortuary poles - all over one hundred years old. In consultation with the Haida people, UNESCO declared Nan Sdins Ilnagaay a World Heritage Site in 1981.

European Settlement

European settlement on Haida Gwaii began in the late 1800's, bringing smallpox and tuberculosis. The Haida population, once numbering in the thousands, was reduced to a few hundred.

Economic ventures by the Europeans included mining, fishing, (including canneries and salteries), forestry and whaling. Rusting boilers and remains of equipment from fishing and mining operations can be seen in Lockport, Bag Harbour, the Copper Islands and various other locations. Still visible today, an open pit mine at Harriet Harbour was in operation during the 1960's, where the town of Jedway had a population of several hundred. Rose Harbour, located on the north side of Kunghit Island operated as a whaling station until the 1940's. At its busiest, in 1911, the plant processed more than 300 whales in one year, most of which were caught within 50 miles of the coast of Gwaii Haanas. Today, Rose Harbour is the only privately owned land within Gwaii Haanas and is home to a few modern day homesteading families.

Natural History

Scientists believe that portions of Gwaii Haanas and the islands escaped glaciation during the last ice age. These areas provided refuge for plants and other animals to survive and evolve. Among the unique plants are four species of moss, one liverwort, and six species of flowering plants.

Gwaii Haanas is home to twelve species of nesting seabirds - 370,000 pairs, or 15% of all nesting seabirds in B.C. It also includes pairs of ancient murrelets (50% of the world population) at the only breeding location in Canada, and 75% of B.C.'s Peales peregrine falcon population.

The Kerouard Islands, at the southern tip of Gwaii Haanas, have the only sea lion rookery on Haida Gwaii. Most visitors to Gwaii Haanas travel the coast line. This coastal area, including the intertidal zone, is one of the largest attractions in the area.

One of the best areas for viewing intertidal life is Burnaby Narrows. It is a narrow channel between Burnaby Island and the mainland that is protected from wave exposure but exposed to high velocity, high salinity, tidal currents.

The area supports dramatic species including the bat star (Patiria minata) and the red turban snail (Astrea gibberose). What makes Burnaby Narrows special also makes it very sensitive to impacts by visitors. Avoid walking in the intertidal - the sheltered conditions and abundance of food in the area may make it a "nursery" area for many invertebrate species. Instead, try a float through, camping is not permitted in the area. Arrange your schedule so you have time to make it to your next campsite.

Gandl K'in (Hotspring Island) is renowned for its hot pools,where soaking is both relaxing and social. Lesser known are its interesting biological properties. A rich assemblage of flora and fauna unique to the area are supported by thermal seepage. Again, look but don't touch. Keep on the designated path so you don't disturb or trample any plant life. If you need any further information, ask the Watchmen.There are endless opportunities to explore and discover in Gwaii Haanas.

Before you go make sure you have the skill level and proper equipment for a safe trip. If you have any doubts travel with a commercial tour operator.

Going on your own? Registration and participation in an orientation session are required before visiting the area. To make a reservation or request an information package please contact Super Natural British Columbia at 1-800-HELLOBC (1-800-435-5622) in North America, or 604-435-5622 in the greater Vancouver area and outside of North America 1-250-387-1642. File a sail plan with friends or family and make sure to arrange check in times.

Wilderness camping

Register first

Visitors to Gwaii Haanas are required to make a reservation with Parks Canada and attend a mandatory orientation prior to departure. For information or reservations, call Super Natural British Columbia at 1-800-HELLOBC (1-800-435-5622) in North America, or 604-435-5622 in the greater Vancouver area and outside North America 1-250-387-1642.

Plan carefully

Be completely self-sufficient by bringing adequate food, clothing and fuel. If you have doubts about your ability or equipment travel with a reputable tour operator. Always allow extra time as weather may change your plans.

Camping

Generally you may choose your site in Gwaii Haanas - except for sensitive ecological or village sites. Check with Watchmen base camps for advice.